Nepal: Island Peak Climb

Climbing Island Peak is a spectacular extension to a fabulous adventure into the Everest region. At 6189 metres (20,305 feet), Island Peak (now know in Nepal as Imja Tse) is not among the Himalayan giants, but nevertheless provides an exhilarating mountaineering experience to the novice and expert alike. No technical mountaineering experience is necessary to climb Island Peak, simply a high level of fitness the desire to push your limits.

This climb is an optional 5-day add-on to the Everest Base Camp Trek or Everest in Hillary’s Footsteps Trek, beginning on Day 15 or day 22 respectively. We follow one of the above itineraries to that day, and instead of returning to Pangboche from Lobuche we descend to Dingboche. This day of downhill walking affords us a nice rest, a good night’s sleep, and a better chance of success on the mountain.

Detailed Itinerary

Day 1: ( This day will replace Day 15 of the Everest Base Camp Itinerary and Day 22 of the Hillary’s Footsteps itinerary) From Dingboche we have a short day’s climb up the Imja Khola valley to Chukkung, (15,000ft) a tiny settlement, lying almost directly beneath the massive south wall of Lhotse, and surrounded by giant peaks. The afternoon is free for resting or a short hike up a nearby ridge to keep our bodies used to high altitude.

Day 2: We proceed farther up the valley to the base camp of Island Peak (16,000ft), reconnoitering the mountain as we go. This approach is a very good opportunity to photograph the mountain from different angles, and orient ourselves for when we are on the peak. This evening is one of our last chances to have a very large dinner with lots of liquids to keep ourselves well nourished and hydrated for the final and long summit push.

Day 3: With a limited amount of equipment, supplies, and porters, we begin our challenging climb up the mountain, working our way up to our highest and final “campsite”, strategically situated at about 18,500ft. We do our best to eat, drink and sleep, although this night will be relatively uncomfortable due to altitude and cold.

Day 4: Summit day. We rise very early and, after a light breakfast and a final check of our equipment, we begin our summit bid. If weather and snow/ice conditions are good we continue cautiously up the mountain and, with any luck, reach the 20,300ft (6189m) summit of Island Peak within 5 – 6 hours. After some time for pictures and snacks on the summit we quickly turn around and descend all the way to base camp. A warm welcome and large dinner awaits us. This is guaranteed to be one of the most exhausting yet rewarding days of your life!

Day 5: After breaking camp, we pay our respects to the mountain and have what will seem to be an easy day of walking down the valley to Dingboche. By this time, we will sleep like babies in what for us will be the relatively thick air of “only”14,000ft!

From next day onwards we continue our trek from Day 15 of the Everest Base Camp, and Day 22 of Hillary’s Footsteps, proceeding from Dingboche down the valley to Upper Pangboche, and descend on to Khumjung.